Gun Metal Paintbrush Midge Pupa
tied by Rick Takahashi

Hook:  Dai Riki 125, Tiemco 2457
Size:  22
Thread:  8/0 Olive Dun
Bead: XS Gun Metal glass bead
Body:  Olive Polyester paintbrush fiber
Wing:  White organdy fiber or white closed cell foam
Thorax:  Peacock Ice Dub

http://www.danica.com/flytier/rtakahashi/taks_gun_metal_paintbrush_pupa.htm

This pattern was designed to mimic the midge pupa found in many of our western streams including the San Juan River.  The polyester paint brush fiber was selected because of the segmentation and the reflective qualities of the fiber that can be achieved when this material is wrapped around the hook. The wing fibers can be found in white organdy material used to make wedding dresses.

Yong Special - Tied by Rick Takahashi

Hook:  Dai Riki 305, Mustad 94840
Size:  22
Head:  8/0 Black
Body:  Coats and Clark 54A Summer Brown Sewing thread

http://shop.flyfishing.about.com/fly_archive/details/1291.htm

The Yong Special was designed by Andy Kim (guide on the San Juan River ) to mimic Baetis, caddis and most importantly the midge pupa.  Using sewing or rod winding thread and spinning the bobbin to tighten up the twist of the thread will result in a well segmented body.  The head is constructed using black tying thread and should be slightly larger than the thorax of the fly. Apply head cement to give the head a shiny appearance.

Yong Blood - tied by Rick Takahashi

Hook:  DaiRiki 270, Tiemco 200R
Size:  22
Thread:  8/0 Red
Body:  Tying thread
Rib:     Tying thread that has been spun to tighten it. Twist the thread then wrap in evenly spaced wraps.

http://shop.flyfishing.about.com/fly_archive/details/1292.htm

The Yongblood is a very simple but effective pattern representing the midge larva.  The tier should apply a thinned down head cement to give the body a transparent effect. The thinned out cement is less likely to crack when the fly is manipulated with forceps.

Pheasant Tail - tied by Daryl Horiuchi

Hook:    Tiemco 100 size 24
Thread:    8/0 Brown
Tail:   Pheasant Tail Fibers  
Rib:   Fine Copper Wire
Body:   Pheasant Tail Fibers
Wingcase:   1 Strand Pearl Flashabou
Thorax:   Peacock Herl
Legs:    Pheasant Tail Fibers

Directions:

1.   Start thread behind eye and lay thread base to just above barb of hook.

2.   Tie in 3 Pheasant Tail Fibers and Fine Copper Wire

3.   Wind thread about 3/4 back up the shank.

4.   Wrap PT Fibers and tie off.  Be sure to leave enough room for the thorax area.

5.   Wrap wire rib and tie off.

6.   Tie in Pearl Flashabou and Peacock Herl.

7.   Wrap Herl to form thorax and tie off.

8.   Take Flashabou over Herl and tie off behind eye.

9.   Tie in 3 Pheasant Tail Fibers behind eye and lay thread so the fibers bend back and down to form legs. Tie the PT Fibers in the middle to half.  This will form three legs on each side.

10. Whip Finish.

Bruised Banana - tied by Chris Guikema

Hook:  #20-18-16 Mustad 80050BR
Thread:   Danville yellow 6/0 or 3/0 but I like the 6/0 because I use it all the time.  (I have 12 other patterns with te same color in them).
Rib:   Copper (not the bright copper)
Head:   Hare-line black

This fly is SIMPLE wrap from the eye of the hook back tie in the copper for the rib, and pull it out of the way.  You want to taper the body so wrap front to back 3-4 times each one a little shorter then the last, on the last run forward hang the thread.  rib with the copper your looking for a tight rib on a smaller fly and a little bigger on the #16 (but you would also use larger wire for the #16). Dub a small head in black or olive brown and your done!   See I told you it was easy... 

The Bug I have chosen is a late summer and flow change bug.  This is a CRANE FLY, and yes there are crane flies on the San Juan.  The numbers are not huge nor are the bugs. I fished #4 and #2 crane flies on some rivers I guided in Montana and the fish HUNTED them.  On the San Juan I have seen 15-20 good days with OK number of crane flies and like in Montana the fish looked for them.  As a guide  I need to be on top of any and all hatches.   This hatch is one that if you're here and you don't have the bug you might never know but if you have the bug, it might be the best day on the river for you since the fish do not see this fly.   Be sure to ALWAYS fish this fly on a flow change day as well as in the hot summer.  This is also a GREAT late day fly crane flies tend to hatch at dark or close to it.  As a guide I don't see the sun go down on the river very much but in the summer when the hatch is on you'll see my boat hit the water at 2-3 pm and fishing with guests to 9-10 at night in the summer. I will fish this pattern in #20-#2 on rivers all over the west, I like the #18 sent for the Juan but will fish it all the way to a #14 in the bait water (where I do most of my fishing on my own).

Modified WD-40 (Yong Style) - tied by Warren Langley aka CNMF

Tail:    Wood duck (mallard dyed wood duck)
Body:   Coats & Clark Thread
Thorax:    8/0 Tying thread & Dubbing to match thread
Head:   Clear (Pearlescent) bead

Instructions: 

To attach thread take three wraps up, then four wraps back, to create taper.  Cut tag.  Tie in tail and wrap back to bend.  Twist thread to form a tight rope.  Wrap forward to bead creating segmented look.  Un-twist and whip finish.  Tie in other thread over the whip finish.  Dub a smallthorax and whip finish. (Can create a buggier thorax for a more scud look).

Gray RS2 - tied by Bob Kirkwood aka PA Angler

Hook:       Tiemco 100 size 18,20,22,24
Thread:     Grey 6/0
Tail:       3 Medium Blue Dun Hackle Barbules
Body:     Grey thread with rib
Rib:      Fine Silver Wire
Wing:    White Antron (1/2 a strand)
Thorax:   Grey Uni Yarn

 Instructions:

 1.   Pinch down the barb on hook with needle nose pliers

 2.   Tie in the tail and silver wire at the bend of hook

 3.   Cover hook with grey thread up to about 2/3 of the hook shank

 4.   Rib Silver wire forward and tie off

 5.   Tie in white Antron as a down-wing, and make sure it is only about half a strand

 6.   Clip Antron to a short post

 7.   Tie in Grey Uni Yarn for thorax and wind forward

 8.   Whip finish and add head cement.

 Comments:  

A fly shop in Colorado Springs had shown me this fly using Antron for the wing.  I have tried Rim Chung's (who is the originator) version compared to this one and the fish s eem to prefer the Antron Wing better.  I believe it is the light reflectivity of the Maryland and Pennsylvania on this pattern during Baetis hatches.  I have seen Baetis from size 18 to 24 on the San Juan and make this fly in all those sizes.  Other good color combinations of thread / Uni Yarn are:  Brown /Brown, Black / Black and Grey / Black.  I also tie RS-2"s to cover many other mayflies which also do very well.  One of my favorites creations is a yellow / yellow fly to match the eastern sulphurs (which are similar to the western pale morning dun).

Midge Pupa - tied by Bruce Hopper aka Bruiser

Hook:  TMC 2488 (this one is a size 26)
Thread:    Uni 8/0 Camel (tie it in gray and olive also)
Abdomen:   Clear Micro Tubing wrapped over thread
Head:   Fine Black Dubbing (Try other colors also)

Instructions:

Start the thread behind the eye.  Trim the end of the micro tubing at an angle and tie it in on top of the shank as you wrap toward the bend.   Stretch the tubing as you wrap adjoining thread wraps carefully back toward the bend.  This will keep the abdomen slim.  Make sure and bind the tubing to the top of the shank – it makes a better looking bug and we all know that the fish in the San Juan will look them over pretty closely sometimes.  Wrap adjoining wraps back toward the eye to make a smooth abdomen.  Tie off the thread behind the eye.  Leave a little room so you don’t crowd the eye.  Stretch the micro tubing and wrap it forward to complete the abdomen.  Stretch it real tight and trim it.  Dub a very fine head, whip finish carefully, and go try it!  In this small size it’s useful for the slow water where you can see the fish.

Rainbow Thread Midge Pupa - tied by Charlie Almack aka CA

Originated by:  Don Holbrook from his book Midge Magic

Hook:  Tiemco 2487, #20 - 26
Thread:    Black 8/0
Tail: None
Abdomen:   Coats & Clark sewing thread, Art .200, #371 Light Slate & #550 Dark Silver
Thorax: Same as abdomen
Head:    Black 8/0 Thread

 Tying Steps: 

1.  Tie in thread at front of hook leaving an eye width gap between end of thread and eye. I have about three layers of thread here, its helps form a tapered body.

2.  Tie in sewing thread, both colors together, on top of the hook, match the end of the sewing thread to the eye end of the tying thread at the gap.

3.  Wrap tying thread over sewing thread so sewing thread is evenly covered with one layer of tying thread, wrap back just past the bend in the hook. Make sure that wraps are smooth.

4.  Wrap tying thread towards the front of the hook, again making sure wraps are smooth and even. When you get to the gap at the front of the hook tie in one half hitch to secure tying thread.

5.  Wrap sewing thread forward to front of hook, both colors together, one tightly against the other, be sure to cover the under layer of thread, no gaps, no crossovers, must be smooth and even.

6.  When you reach the gap at the front of the hook tie off the sewing thread with two wraps of tying thread.

7.  Cut sewing thread and form a smooth head with tying thread, whip finish, coat with head cement.

Notes:

This fly really changes color when wet, I use a small shallow dish with a small amount of water in in it to submerge flies in so I can see what they look like when wet. This way I can look at them under the water like the fish will see them.

Mercury Blood Midge - tied by Al Forbes aka Midge

Hook:   Dai-Riki 270 or Tiemco 200R  Sizes 18 to 22
Head:   Spirit River Hi-Lite Silver glass bead or equivalent—extra small
Thread:    Red 8/0
Body:   Red tying thread
Rib:   Fine gold wire
Thorax:   Peacock herl

Foam Winged RS2 - tied by Mike Terrian aka Mike T

Hook:    TMC 100, 101 size 20
Thread:    Gray 8/0 Uni     
Tail:    Dark dun microfibetts
Body:  Gray 8/0 Uni thread
Thorax:  Gray ultra-fine dubbing
Wing:    White foam post

Instructions:

1. Secure hook in vise.

2. Secure thread at head and wind evenly to bend of hook, leaving 2" of tag end of thread hanging off back of hook.

3. Secure two microfibetts to top of hook with one or two wraps.

4. Pull tag end of thread up between microfibetts toward eye of hook, splaying them.

5. Use several tight wraps to trap thread on hook, locking the microfibetts in position.

6. Let bobbin drop and spin clock-wise until thread "ropes" up.

7. Wind a single layer back up to a couple eye-lengths from the eye.

8. Secure a thin piece of foam to the top of the hook, bind it toward the front of the hook, and cut off the excess near the eye.

9. Dub in front of and behind the foam post.

10. Whip finish the thread.

11. Clip the foam post.

Variations :

You can build a tapered body with dubbing but I don't think it makes any difference to the fish. You can experiment with the length of the post as well, leaving it long initially and clipping it on the river.

Chocolate Emerger with Black Looped Wing
tied by Tom Kanouse aka TJFISHSKI

Hook:  Tiemco 2488, 16 – 22 or similar
Thread:   8/0 Dark Brown Uni thread
Tail:    5-6 Brown Hackle Fibers
Thorax:   Wapsi Super Fine Dubbing, Mahogany Brown
Loop Wing:   Black Poly Pro Yarn

Instructions:

1. Debarb hook.

2. Tie in brown thread and wrap almost to bend of hook.

3. Tie in 6 – 8 brown hackle fibers for tail.  Brown Z-lon can also be used as a shuck.

4. Wrap thread forward over the hackle fibers to about the 2/3 point of the hook.

5. Separate the black yarn into about ½ of original thickness. Tie in black poly yarn with 4 –5 thread wraps.  Cut tag end of yarn.

6. Apply brown dubbing to thread and tie in thorax.

7. Fold the black yarn over the top of the thorax and secure with two or three light wraps of thread. If you tie down too tightly, it’s difficult to form the loop wing.

8. Insert bodkin between the black yarn and the thorax and gently lift up the yarn creating the loop wing.

9. Tie off wing tag with two or three firm wraps and clip tag.

10. Whip finish and apply head cement.

 Notes:

I have had good luck with this fly, not only on the San Juan, but on the Bighorn and Green as well.  It has produced well at all levels of the water column. Just add weight to sink lower, or remove weight and fish it as a trailer behind a dry.

Chocolate Emerger - tied by Francis Peter aka Fepeter

Hook:      Tiemco 2487 or equivalent, size 20 to 24
Thread:    8/0 Uni-Thread, Brown
Rib:          Fine copper wire
Wing:      Krystal Flash, Pearl
Thorax:    Ultrafine Dubbing, Brown

Instructions:

Remove barb from hook. Start thread near eye and wrap back 1/3 of hook, covering the hook shank. Tie in the copper wire and continue wrapping back into the bend while covering the shank. (If you want to imitate a Baetis emerger, add some tailing material of your choice.) Wrap thread back to beginning of wire. Wrap wire forward with about 2 wire spaces between each wrap. Tie off wire and break wire in front of wraps. Tie in four strands of Krystal flash. Add a bit of ultra-fine dubbing for the thorax, then whip finish. Trim the wing length to your preference. I mostly fish this emerger with a short wing, but sometimes a longer wing works better (especially for Baetis imitation). So I keep a few long wings in by box and trim them to the desired length on the river.

Notes:

We often find ourselves chasing new fly patterns in hopes of solving that “tough” day on the river. This pattern is a traditional and consistent producer and I never travel to the San Juan without it. Mostly it imitates midge emergers, but can also imitate Baetis (with or without the tail). The lack of a tail has never made it less effective for me.

CDC Wing RS2 - tied by Mark Kesterson aka Clinchknot

Hook:                Tiemco 100 size 22
Thread:             Uni 8/0 Brown
Tail:                  Light dun microfibett
Body:                Dark brown dub
Wings:             Saddle hackle

Instructions:

1. Thread base to just above barb of hook

2. Tie in 2 microfibett before the bend at each side of shank with 1 wrap behind and under fibers

3. Dub dark brown, wrap once behind tail fibers and then forward –twist tight for segments

4. Tie in hackle

5. Dub thorax fore and aft of wing

6. Build head to suit

7. Trim tail same length as body

8. Lift wings and trim to suit

Crackleback - tied by Gary Holland aka Missouri-Fisher

Created by Ed Story,  St. Louis, MO.   tied by Gary Holland aka Missouri-Fisher

Hook:   Dai-Riki 300, TMC 100, Mustad 94840 (sizes 12 - 16)
Thread: Green, Brown or Camel 6/0
Body:   Thread or spin-dubbing for a dry fly.
Hackle:  Furnace Hackle to match hook size
Other:    Peacock Herl

Tying Directions:

1. Attach the thread and wrap to rear of hook.

2. Pick a piece of sized hackle and spread the hackle by running your fingers against it so that the hackle stands perpendicular to the stem. Tie in the hackle with the dull side facing you.

3. Tie in a piece of peacock herl folded over (making two strands of peacock herl)

4. Wrap thread forward to tie off point (leave room to finish the fly).  Use spin-dubbing to create dry fly.

5. Pull the peacock herl forward and lay on top of hook shank (and body) and tie off.

6. Wrap the hackle forward (Palmer) in 5 even spaces and tie off

7. Whip finish 

Fishing:

Fish as emerger; deadly on the rise at the end of a drift.  False cast dubbed version to remove moisture and fish dry.

Creme Thread Midge - tied by Daryl Horiuchi aka Hooch

Hook:          Tiemco 200R size 22
Thread:      Cream Gudebrod Wrapping Thread Size A
Body:          Wrapping Thread
Head:          Black Permanent Marker

Instructions:

1.  Start thread in the middle of the shank and wrap to 1 wrap behind eye while holding on the tag end.

2.  Wrap back and when you pass over the tag end cut it off.

3.  Keep wrapping back until above barb, spin bobbin to tighten thread then wrap forward and finish.

4.  Take a permanent marker and make black head.

Notes:

Can also add red squiqqly streaks along length of body.  The fish really seem to key in on the red sometimes.   I have done experiments with using a built up black thread head version of this same fly.  I put the two flies on and they take the marked smooth over the thread every time.  Also try brown head.

Lightning Bug - tied by Daryl Horiuchi aka Hooch

Hook:     Tiemco 2487 size 22
Thread:   8/0 Tan
Tail:       Brown Hackle Fibers
Body:        Gold Krystal Flash
Wingcase:   Pearl Flashabou
Thorax:    Gray Dubbing

Instructions: 

1.   Start thread behind eye and lay thread base to just above barb of hook.

2.   Tie in a bunch of brown hackle fibers.

3.   Tie in 1 Strand of Gold Krystal Flash.

4.   Wrap KF around shank and go towards eye and back to form tapered body and tie off.

5.   Dub Thorax.

6.   Whip Finish.

Orange V-Rib San Juan Worm
tied by Rob Kirkwood aka PA Angler

Hook:      Mustad 37160 size 14 or 16
Thread:   Orange 6/0
Underbody:  Orange Vernille
Overbody:   Orange V-Rib medium

Instructions:

1.    Pinch barb on hook with needle nose pliers

2.    Cut a section of orange vernille to extend 1.2" past both hook on both ends

3.    Tie in vernille at bend of hook

4.    Tie in V-Rib at bend of hook

5.    Advance thread to middle of hook

6.    Tie down vernille here

7.    Advance thread to eye of hook

8.    Tie down vernille here

9.    Wrap V-Rib (with no gaps) to eye of hook, tie off

10.  Whip finish and apply head cement

Comments:  

This is a variation of a fly shown to me by my late Uncle Norm Mabie.  It has been a consistent producer for me on the San Juan.  Other colors that work well are Light Brown and Dark Brown.   I also tie red, pink, and chartreuse versions for the east coast trout.  The later is a very good fly for east coast fishing when green inchworms are hanging from the trees.   I like the Mustad hook for these because they are cheap and have a nice curve to them.  But always make sure to pinch down the barbs on the Mustads.

Firehot - tied by Francis Peter aka Fepeter

Hook:  Any extra short/wide gap hook (e.g., egg or glo bug hooks) size, 14 to 18, picked based upon shank length, (I used Mustad 94843)
Bead:    Midge size Red
Thread:   6/0 Uni-Thread, Fire Orange

Instructions: 

Remove barb from hook. Put bead on hook shank. Start thread behind bead and lock bead into place. Carefully wrap one layer of thread over shank (completely covering shank) back slightly into the bend. It may help to allow thread to unravel and flatten a bit to ensure coverage. After thread has been wrapped to bend, twist thread tightly and carefully rib the body back to the head. Whip finish. Add two or three coats of head cement or Hard as Nails nail polish.

CDC Biot Caddis Emerger - tied by Rodney Barilleaux

Hook:    TMC 5212 #14 – 16 (2312 optional)
Thread:  Brown 8/0
Tail:  Yellow/Amber Antron (short)
Body:  Olive Turkey Biot
Rear Thorax:  Olive Antron
Underwing:   Blue Dun Antron
Overwing:    Olive #4 CDC tied flat
Legs:    Overwing tied down and back
Antennae:   Two Lemon Wood Duck fibers
Front Thorax:    Peacock Herl, single strand

Instructions:

1. Start by crimping down the barb and tying the thread on a third of the way down the hook shank.

2. Cut a section of Yellow Antron off the spool and then split the antron fibers so you only use half of them in creating the tail.  The tail should be no longer than the distance to the curve of the hook.  “Fluff” the tail as best as you can.

3. Tying in an olive turkey biot is done with just a couple of wraps.  Once done, advance the thread back up the shank to just past the halfway point on the shank.  Wrap the biot up the shank.  Keep tension on the biot as you wrap and use some care to space it out over the previous wrap to create the ribbing effect.

4. Wrap the biot past the spot where you’ve stopped the thread.  Very carefully, make your first wrap of thread around the biot to secure it.  If you pull too tightly at this point, you will more than likely cut the biot with the thread and start an unwinding panic.  After you have the first wrap secured, wrap a couple of more wraps that are not tight.  Trim biot.

5. Over the tie off point of the biot, tie in the olive antron that forms the rear thorax.  It only requires a couple of wraps of antron to make the thorax.

6. Tie in the blue dun antron underwing over the tie off point for the thorax.  Use a couple of wraps and snug it down to pinch the antron against the shank.  With this accomplished, trim off the front antron right to the wraps.   The rear antron, pull backwards.  With the antron tight, cut it right above the junction of the tail and biot.  When you let go of the antron, it should snap back and pop up.

7. Using #4 olive CDC, tie in two feathers as overwing.  You want to tie these in flat.  You want the length of the overwing to be just slightly longer than the underwing.

8. This can be the only tricky stage of tying this fly.  You want to take the butt ends of the CDC, split them with the hook shank and pull them down and back.   You then tie them off to hold this position.   This creates the legs.  You trim the tied down CDC just above the barb of the hook.

9. Tie in two lemon Wood Duck fibers.  You want to tie them in using their natural curvature to have them curve over the back of the fly.  The antron and CDC will keep them up but the curve works for you when the fly is wet.

10. Wrap in peacock herl to create the front thorax. The tapered look of the thorax comes from starting the wrap over the CDC/Wood Duck fiber junction and then winding forward towards the eye.  Tie off and create the head.

Woven Bodied Stonefly Instar Nymph w/ Trailing Pellicle
tied by Dick Seymour aka Bow Biker

side view

bottom view

top view

Photo: Thomas Ames Jr. - Copyright 1999

Stonefly Instar
Family Perlodidae

During its lifecycle a growing stonefly larva must cast off its hard outer shell many times. During these instar stages it is extremely desirable and vulnerable to predators. This unlucky specimen was unable to entirely remove the pellicle.

Hook: Size 8 Tiemco 200R. c/w 5/32 gold bead. Pellicle- Size 10 nymph hook- cut off at start of bend
Weight: 15 wraps .020 lead behind gold bead.
Thread: 8/0 Tan
Tail: White goose biots. Pellicle- Brown Goose Biots.
Abdomen: "DMC" 6 strand embroidery floss (Michael's Crafts). #677(light) - #676(dark).
Pellicle: #782(light) - #780 - (dark).
Thorax: Hareline - Ice Dub Pearl
Rib: Fine gold wire.(For thorax)
Antenna: White hen hackle stems
Legs: White hen hackle.
Wing case: Tan Swiss straw

Instructions:

1. Put hook in vise c/w weight and gold bead. (Barb smashed down).

2. Wrap thread back to just past bend of hook and dub in a small ball to split tails ( Ice Dub Pearl for 200R and Ice Dub Golden Brown for Pellicle.)

3. Attach goose biots(tail) and run thread to front of hook.

4. Tie in a 10" piece of the light(#677) embroidery floss along the near side of hook and extend back to tie-in point at tail. (Right-handed tier)

5. Repeat this procedure with a 10" piece of darker(#676) embroidery floss along far side of hook.

6. Flatten lead wire with pliers.

7. Tie off and cut thread.

8. Turn the vise so the eye of the hook is pointing straight at you. Now begins the fun.

9. Take the end of the light floss between your right thumb and finger forming a loose loop in front of the darker floss. Put your left index and second finger behind that loop and reach thru' and down to grab the darker floss between your fingertips.

10. Gently roll the darker floss over the top of the eye and pull the rest of the thread thru'. Move the thread back to the tie-in point and tighten by pulling ends out sideways.

11. Repeat procedure, taking the light floss between your left thumb and finger. (ALWAYS the light floss in front of the dark and then the dark floss over the top of the hook. I weave right to the back of the gold bead, re-attach the thread and tie off the floss.

12. Attach wing case, antenna and rib and tie in hen hackle onto thorax area.

13. At this point get your pellicle ready to attach. Tie-in a 6” piece of monofilament (4x tippet) and secure to back of thorax area. Tie-in pellicle. Dub in thorax. (Actually I dubbed the thorax, palmered the hen hackle ahead and then attached the pellicle with the gold fine wire the last four flies I tied.)

14. Palmer hen hackle ahead to gold bead. Rib with gold wire. Tie-in wing case, tie off and cement head.