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KF Zebra Midge - tied by Jeremy
Barela

Hook: TMC 2487 24-28
Thread: Black 8/0
Abdomen: Black Coats and Clark dual duty cotton sewing thread and
cream Gudebrod rod wrapping thread
Body: Black and Cream C&C wrapped together to
create ribbed effect
Head: Black 8/0 thread built up
Wing: Pearl krystal flash
1. Start black 8/0 thread behind eye.
2. Tie in pieces of black and white C&C thread and wrap
8/0 black thread halfway down the bend, covering the C&C thread, and wrap back up to
eye.
3. Wrap C&C thread together back up to behind eye, tie
off with black 8/0 and cut excess.
4. Tie in Krystal flash for wing.
5. Build up black thread to create head.
6. Whip finish and cement.
7. Cut Krystal Flash to create wing.
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Black Majic - tied by Phil
Boatright aka Rebel

Hook: Tiemco 2487 #20-26
Thread: 8/0 black
Body: Tapered thread with Black KF
Head: Built up thread
Wing: Black KF pulled back and clipped from head
1. Start the thread at the head of the hook with a
few turns and wrap two pieces of black KF down to the bend of the hook.
2. Then taper the body with the thread following with the
KF and then wrapping it with a couple turns and pulling it toward the tail of the fly
building the head , leaving the two strands of KF to be clipped off for the wings.
3. Finish the head with some sort of cement, I used Super
Glue to get the glossy bead effect.
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Brown Mono Midge - tied by Jude
Duran

Hook: Tiemco 100 #20-26
Thread: Brown 8/0, Black 8/0
Abdomen: Under body is brown thread, over body is 5x tippet
Head: Black 8/0 tying thread
Tie mono midges similar to a thread larva or UFO, without
spinning thread. Once you have tied in brown thread, tie in a piece of mono and wrap brown
8/0 thread back to above barb and back up, following with consequtive wraps of the mono to
create the translucent body of the midge. Then, tie in 8/0 black thread to create
head/thorax.
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UV Midge - tied by Sean McAfee

Hook: size 24 scud
Thread/body: 8/0 black, "small" copper wire wrap
Wing: uv pearl krystal flash
Head: ultra fine gray dubbing (optional)
1.Dress hook with thread, tie in copper wire.
2. Wrap forward, secure wire.
3. Tie in two strands flash wings, doubled back to make two
"wings" on each side.
4. Leave room at head for dubbing, very small amount.
5. Whip finish.
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Desert Storm Gunner - tied by
Rob Jiron

Hook: Tiemco 2487 #24
Thread: Fl. fire orange 8/0 thread
Abdomen: Pearl
krystal flash
Head: Gun metal bead
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San Juan Pirate - tied by Bruce
Hopper

Hook: TMC 2488 #24-28
Thread: 8/0 white and 8/0 black
Abdomen: Thread
Wing: Krystal Flash
Head: Fine Black Dubbing
Start the white thread behind the eye and bind the black
thread to the top of the hook shank as you wrap the white back to the bend. Make each
thread wrap join the last one perfectly - a technique you're all familiar with. Wrap
adjoining thread wraps with the white thread down and back three times, for a total of six
layers of white thread. Let the twist build near the "thorax" and unwind the
thread for the abdomen to get a little taper. Tie off and cut off the white thread. Spin
the black thread tight and wrap a rib toward the head. Untwist the thread. Cut two short
lengths of KF and catch them in the thread, binding them to the top of the head. Spin a
tiny amount of fine black dubbing onto the thread and wrap the head in front and behind
the KF as you hold it upright. Whip finish and cut off the black thread and trim the KF
wing.
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Red Hot - tied by John Gordon,
Jr.

Hook: Diaichi 1270 or Tiemco 200R (size
#22)
Bead: Midge or small size. (red)
Thread: 8/0 Uni-thread. (red)
Body: Blood red D-rib (Midge size) or red micro tubing.
1.Debarb and place bead on hook.
2. Wrap in just enough thread behind the bead
to lock the bead against the hook eye.
3. Tie in your D-rib. Be sure the tag end
doesn't hang over the bead. Pull up on the tag end and cut flush. By pulling up on the
D-rib it will snap back making a clean appearance with the rest of the body.
4. Wrap the D-rib around the hook. Adjust the
tension while wrapping by stretching the material. This will help give the body a tapered
look. Start working your way back to the barb. Be sure to do side-by-side wraps. Don't
overlap. Once your just past the hook barb then overlap and start your way back to the
bead.
5. Tie off the D-rib just behind the bead.
Pull up on it and cut off flush.
6. Wrap your thread just behind the bead and
create a tapered look up to the bead. Whip finish and coat the thread only with head
cement.
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Black Bead Orange Midge tied UFO
style
tied by Ruben Yzaguirre

Hook: TMC 2487 #22-26
Thread: Orange 8/0
Head: Black bead
Place bead on hook, then tie fly like a UFO.
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Olive Midge Emerger - tied by
Rob DeFeo

Hook: Tiemco #20 Midge Pupa
Thread: Olive 140
Rib: Small Copper Wire
Wing: Pearl Crystal Flash
Head: Clear Glass Bead
I usually tie this midge in red, black or olive - but
almost any color will do. It can be fished under a dry fly, or simply as an emerger in the
surface film. I have had excellent results with these midges throughout the season, but
especially in the winter months when trout are keying on midges by the thousands. To tie,
begin by securing the glass bead and tying in the copper wire close to the head. Wrap the
thread down the shank of the hook over the wire, and then back up for a double wrap. Twist
the copper rib up to the head and secure in place. Using 4-6 stands of Pearl Crystal
Flash, tie in the emerging wing and cut to size. Whip finish and cement.
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Mohican PT Nymph - tied by Rob
DeFeo

Hook: Mustad #16 Nymph (#12-#18)
Thread: Black 140
Tail: Pheasant Tail Fibers
Abdomen: Pheasant Tail Fibers
Rib: Small Copper Wire
Legs: Root Beer Crystal Flash
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Head: Black Thread
This nymph was derived from the original
Mohican Pheasant Tail, made for the Clear Fork River in Ohio. To tie, begin by wrapping
black thread around the hook. Tie on 6-8 turns of lead wire (optional), depending on the
size of the fly. Tie the tail fibers into place, and secure the rib wire. With the
remaining length of the pheasant tail fibers, wrap the abdomen. Counter wrap the copper
wire and secure at the thorax. Next, tie on a few strands of crystal flash and trim into
legs. Wrap in a strand of peacock herl, and finish with thread head. Whip finish and
cement.
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Yong Blood - tied by Rick
Takahashi

Hook: Dai Riki 270,
Tiemco 200R # 18-22
Abdomen and thorax: Tying thread red, cream, tan, etc.
1.Start at the eye of the hook and wrap
thread back to the bend of the hook.
2. Take several tight wraps at the tail
then spiral (rib) the thread forward in the evenly spaced wraps to head of larva.
3. Build an ever so slight head then whip
finish.
4. Trim tying thread leaving a small tag
end of thread at the eye.
5. Splay the thread end to simulate legs.
6. Coat body twice with thinned out head
cement.
Special notes: This is such a
simple pattern yet so effective. I prefer the more slender profile of this pattern to
other midge larva Ive seen. I base this on the larva that Ive collected and
they are very slender in the Juan.
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Yong Special - tied by Rick
Takahashi

Hook: Dai Riki 350, Tiemco 2488,
Mustad 94840 #20-26
Abdomen and thorax: Coats & Clark 54A (Summer Brown) and 18
(Cream)
Head: Black 8/0
1.Start at the mid portion of the shank
and wrap thread forward towards the eye of the hook allowing space fore tying off head.
2. Wrap thread back towards the bend of
the hook the entire length of the hook.
3. Wrap thread forward to thorax with-in
two or three wraps of the end of thorax.
4. Half-hitch or whip finish.
5. Attach black tying thread and form
head. The thorax end of the head should be slightly larger in diameter than thorax. Whip
finish and cement.
Special note:
Ive not seen another pattern
that works as well as this one does. I also tie it in a cream and tan color for the Juan.
Ive used it on many of the rivers I fish with outstanding results. Look up Andy
Kims website for how he rigs up his flies.
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Tak's Biot Winged Adult Midge -
tied by Rick Takahashi

Hook: Tiemco 2488 #22-30
Thread: 8/0 Black
Body: Tying thread
Rib: Very fine gold or silver wire
Wing: White Biot
Hackle: Grizzly
1. Attach tying thread 1/3 the distance
of the hook shank back from the eye of the hook.
2. Tie in gold or silver wire then over
wrap wire with tying thread back to the bend of the hook.
3. Wrap tying thread forward to the mid
point of the hook and then wrap wire in evenly spaced wraps to the thorax.
4. Secure and trim wire.
5. Take one biot and trim the very tiptop
portion.
6. Tie in the biot by the tip with the
curve up.
7. Trip biot short to form wing.
8. Attach hackle and take several wraps.
9. Secure hackle and trim excess.
10.
Trim the bottom of the hackle so that the fly will ride flush in the surface
film.
Special Note:
I will fish this pattern when I find the fish actively rising to midge
adults. I typically drop this fly off a larger more easily seen pattern. Ive had
good success with this fly and find that I should have tied a size 30 to have more
success. Look in the VFS archive of patterns for another adult pattern called Taks
Midge Adult. (springtime flies) Ive also had great success with that pattern also.
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Tak's Foam Winged Baetis Emerger
tied by Rick Takahashi

Hook: Tiemco 200R #18-22
Thread: 8/0 Olive Dun
Shuck: Antron Fibers Amber, brown or light dun
Body: Hareline Micro tubing olive
Thorax: Grey super fine dubbing
Wing: White larva lace foam with pearl krystal flash
1.Attach tying thread 1/3 the distance of
the hook shank back from the eye of the hook.
2. Tie in antron fibers then over wrap
with tying thread back to the bend of the hook, trim antron fibers short to create shuck.
3. Wrap thread to thorax and tie in micro
tubing, over wrap thread to rear of the hook opposite to the point of where the antron
fibers start to form the shuck.
4. Wrap micro tubing forward to the
thorax, secure and trim excess.
5. Dub thorax.
6. Tie in the krystal flash so that they
flare out to the side.
7. Tie in the foam and trim to form wing.
8. Tie in a neat head, whip finish and
trim.
Special note:
I've just come up with this pattern on our last trip to
the Juan and used it as a point fly. Try it and tell me how it works for you.
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UFO - tied by Jack Mittman

Hook: Tiemco 200R #22
Thread: Gudebrod rod wrapping thread and 8/0 dark brown Uni-thread
for head
Abdomen: Gudebrod rod wrapping thread
Thorax: 8/0 dark brown thread
Start Gudebrod rod wrapping thread mid-shank,
wrapping toward eye and back down to above barb. Spin thread clockwise to create rope and
make close wraps back towards the eye. Make half hitch or whip finish. Start dark brown
thread at eye and create head. Whip finish.
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Gray CDC RS2 - tied by Jack
Mittman

Hook: Tiemco 200R #20-22
Thread: Gray 6/0
Tail: 2 splayed Dun microfibbets
Abdomen: Gray 6/0
Thorax: Gray 6/0
Wing: CDC
Start thread at eye and wrap back to above barb, making
sure tag end of thread is also above barb. To create tail, use ½ hook length of
microfibbets and tie in. Use fingernail to split microfibbets, then pull tag end of thread
between the microfibbets and secure, cutting excess thread. Wrap thread back up to thorax
area and tie in CDC wing, wrapping both in front and behind to make tuft stand upright.
Create small head and whip finish.
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Gunner (Larger) - tied by Jack
Mittman

Hook: Tiemco 2487 #24
Thread: Red thread
Abdomen: Pearl
Krystal flash
Head: Gun-metal bead
Place bead on hook. Start thread behind bead
to lock in. Tie in krystal flash and wrap down to bend of hook and back up. Tie off
krystal flash and whip finish. |
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